Knowing how to properly identify OEM and Non-OEM LCD screens is just one of the methods every cell phone repair shop should be auditing to ensure their not being taken advantage of by their LCD screen recycler.
Yet, after 2+ years it still seems to be an area that has many mixed methods and varying identification methods.
To be honest, the fault should be placed on LCD buyback companies for not educating their clients on their exact internal identification methods. It should be our responsibility to provide this information upfront to prevent any negative experiences later on down the road. If the information isn’t provided upfront, repair shops should ask.
In fact, it’s more likely that a negative experience happens because common knowledge isn’t common sense between buyer and seller rather than one trying to take advantage of another.
With that said, there ARE dozens of obvious and not-so-obvious ways to distinguish OEM and Non-OEM yet we try to instill two main concepts; simplicity and accuracy.
iPhone 4/4s OEM (Original) LCD Screen
Our rule for OEM (Original) iPhone 4/4s is simple:
- A wavy looking “V” centered across the middle of the digitizer flex cable.
iPhone 4/4s Non-Original LCD Screen
Notice there is no “V” on a copy/non-original LCD digitizer flex cable.
- Colored screens
- laser etchings on the QR code
- serial numbers on the back of the LCD screen
- differences in the white lettering on the flex cables
- water beading on the touch panel
Yes, these other methods can be used to identify OEM vs Non-OEM on LCD screens where the “V” is in question. But if you’re going for a quick and simple audit, the “V” test is going to hold true ~98% of the time.
iPhone 5/5c/5s Original vs Non-Original
For iPhone 5/5c/5s we also use just one main rule:
- A Green ring where the camera holder is located = Original LCD (Pictured on top)
- If the camera ring isn’t green = Non-Original.
Keeping it Simple
Other methods can be used to identify OEM or Non-OEM condition but require a lot more effort to get to the same result that these 2 single rules will immediately identify 98%+ of the time. No one ever complains about a ~2% difference. A mix of all the other methods will result in differences between OEM and Non-OEM.
With respect to your time, let’s keep it simple and accurate.
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